Dachshund Blanket — FREE Crochet Pattern for Wiener/Sausage Dog Afghan
Hi friends!
This post is all about the Dachshund Blanket — and it includes the written instructions for FREE! You can also follow the video tutorial for free on my YouTube.
Before we start, here are a few links for you:
The PDF version is available on:
This design is now available as a kit with Lion Brand! Includes all the yarn you need & a FREE copy of the pattern.
For any questions about this pattern, please email me at sspstitches@gmail.com — I usually respond within 24 hours!
Get my new book, Retro Crochet Style: 15 Beginner-Friendly Patterns to Create Your Vintage-Inspired Closet, here! NOTE: This book does not contain the Dachshund Blanket pattern; for a list of the patterns it does contain, click here.
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This post contains affiliate links. This means, should you make a purchase, I will receive a small portion of the sale at no extra cost to you. All opinions are my own.
There will be a little more info about the pattern before we dive into the instructions, just so you’re fully informed before beginning! As always, if you have any questions, please email me at sspstitches@gmail.com — I’m more than happy to answer!
Happy crocheting <3
About
The Dachshund Blanket is a cozy throw, perfect for adding a little interest to any living room! It seems like a normal striped blanket upon first glance, but you’ll always know that there’s a very long sausage dog hiding in there!
I’m also super excited about this one because it’s my second-ever free pattern! I feel more confident in this tutorial, and I am so excited to see what everyone makes with it; the color combos are endless, and I can’t wait to see them all!
Sizing
The standard blanket is 34.5” (88cm) wide and 48” (122cm) tall.
Materials
Hook: 5mm or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions:
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Bobbin holders (I use bobby pins)
Yarn: Worsted weight/size 4 yarn in 2 colors, 1960 total yds [1792 m]
Colors:
Color 1 is the background color. You will need 860 yds [786m]. I used medium blue/teal.
Color 2 is the color of the dog. You will need 1100 yds [1006m]. I used off-white.
I used Lion Brand Color Theory to make this. I recommend using a similar acrylic or wool for your own project; you can find good substitutes on yarnsub.com.
Always make a swatch before beginning to make sure you meet gauge (also important so your pattern isn’t too big or too small) and are happy with the fabric created!
Gauge
Note: Gauge is not super important for this project, but knowing if your tension is similar to mine will help you figure out if you’ll need more or less yarn than what I have listed.
If your gauge is too tight (more stitches & rows within your swatch than I have), your blanket will be smaller than expected and require less yarn; if your gauge is too loose (less stitches & rows within your swatch than I have), your blanket will be larger than expected and require more yarn.
To fix a loose gauge, size your hook down. To fix a tight gauge, size your hook up.
4 x 4 in (10 x 10 cm) = 17 sts and 9.5 rows in double crochet
For swatch: Ch 21.
Row 1: Dc in 3rd st from hook (skipped sts count as dc) and in each st across, turn. [20 dc]
Row 2-10: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st across, turn.
Block your swatch if you plan on blocking your blanket. Measure the inner 4 in (10 cm) of your blocked swatch to get the most accurate measurement.
Pattern Notes
Skill Level: Beginner/Advanced Beginner
Sizing: This design is written for one size, as detailed in the “Sizing” section above.
Construction: This design is worked row-by-row, using tapestry crochet and bobbin techniques to manage the minimal color changes along the way.
Abbreviations
Terms & Techniques
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
st/sts: stitch/stitches
Pattern Instructions
Step 1: Before You Begin
The charts for this blanket are 75 pixels wide. When making the standard size of the blanket, you will complete 2 double crochets for every pixel. This means that the chart is a 150 stitch repeat; the width of your project can be any multiple of 150 stitches plus the border stitches. There are 8 border stitches in each row (4 on each side) to create the framed border effect.
The standard blanket uses the “Legs” chart first, then there is a striped section to make the illusion of a long dog, then the “Head” chart is used last. See the charts at the end of the pattern.
This pattern is worked row-by-row. For your first row that follows the chart, you will follow it from right to left, as a typical right-handed crocheter would do. Then, you will turn it to the other side for the next row and follow the chart from left to right. You will repeat this process for every row, flipping the entire blanket each time.
How to Change Colors
If you already know how to change colors mid-row in double crochet, feel free to skip this section!
Let’s say you’re switching from color 1 to color 2 mid-row.
On the last stitch of color 1, do not complete the final pull-through to finish the dc; leave your hook while you grab your new color. There should be two loops on the hook.
Pull color 2 through the last two loops on your hook, creating a new loop of color 2 and dropping the working end of color 1 to the back. You can tie the short, non-working end of color 2 to the working end of color 1; I do it pretty close to the stitch, and double knot it so it doesn’t come loose.
Note: To avoid having to weave in ends later, I simply crochet over my ends as I go, holding the end to the back of the stitches of the row below. Here, I would crochet over the non-working end of color 2 for the next few stitches. Do not crochet over the working end that you dropped!
Continue crocheting with color 2 as normal, leaving the working end of color 1 behind.
Now you know how to change colors, which is the most advanced skill you need to complete this blanket! To avoid tangling up all these colors, since you’ll be working multiple color sections per row, I highly recommend using bobbins.
A Guide to Bobbins
You will be working with multiple colors of yarn in one row. To avoid tangling, and to minimize the number of ends you have to weave in, I highly recommend creating a bobbin for each color section you work. Note: During this project, I only created bobbins for the four feet and the tail; otherwise, I just used a full skein as normal.
To make a bobbin, hold the end of your yarn in between your middle and ring fingers, then wind the yarn around all fingers (except your thumb) 35-40 times. This number does not have to be exact! Different sized sections will require different amounts of yarn; you will get a feel for it as you go along.
While keeping the yarn in this formation, slip it off your fingers, then wind the yarn around the middle of the formation another 35-40 times. Cut the yarn, and now you have a bobbin ready to use!
When using the bobbin, if it ends before you’ve completed the section it is needed for, e.g. one of the dogs or dividers, you can simply make and attach a new one.
To keep the bobbins from getting tangled, after you finish using them for a section and have completed a couple of stitches in the next color, you can bobby pin the bobbin to the last stitch of its completed section.
When you return to a bobbin that you have pinned, remove the pin. For your next stitch, you can then pull the yarn through as you would normally for a color change; there will be a small length of yarn between where it was left off and the new stitch, but you can hold this length to the front of the stitch and crochet over it. It may not make sense reading it, but once you encounter this while working, it should be easy!
Sometimes, the color you’re working will end before the place your bobbin is pinned, and you will have to pull your yarn over a couple of stitches. This is okay! You will still pull the yarn through as you would normally, then crochet over the length of yarn created.
You will also encounter stitch patterns where the color you’re working will go a few stitches beyond where the bobbin ended in the last row. This is okay! You will simply unpin the bobbin, crochet over it for as many stitches as you need, then pull through with its color and continue working.
When you are finished using the bobbin, simply cut a length of yarn to act as the end, then crochet over it or leave it on the wrong side to weave in later. You can double knot it before doing this to help further secure it.
Step 2: Let’s Begin!
Row 1: With color 1, ch 159, dc in third ch from hook (the skipped 2 chs count as a st), dc in each ch to end. You now have 158 stitches. This is the first row of your border “frame.”
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as your first dc here and throughout) and turn. Dc 1, then change to color 2 and work dc in each st until your final 2 sts. Switch back to color 1 and dc in the final 2 sts.
Row 3: Ch 2 and turn. Dc 1, then change to color 2 and work 2 dc. Change back to color 1 and start working row 1 of the “Legs” chart from right to left. After you’ve finished the chart, you should have 4 sts left. Change back to color 2 and dc in 2 sts, then change to color 1 and work final 2 sts.
Row 4: Ch 2 and turn. Change to color 2 and work 2 sts. Change to color 1 and work row 2 of the “Legs” chart from left to right. After you’ve finished working the chart, you should have 4 sts left. Change to color 1 and work 2 sts. Change to color 2 and work final 2 sts.
Now you’re hopefully understanding the rhythm of the chart! Complete all 18 rows of the “Legs” chart, working your border sts along the way; those first 4 & final 4 stitches will not change until the last 2 rows of the pattern, which you don’t have to worry about for a while!
Stripe section: Work 3 rows in color 1, then 10 rows in color 2. Then (work 8 rows in color 1, then 10 rows in color 2) 3 times. Then, work 3 rows in color 1.
Make sure to work your border stitches!
Put another way:
Rows 21-23: Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st across. In last st of row 21, change to color 2.
Rows 24-33: Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st across. In last st of row 31, change to color 1.
Rows 34-41: Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st across. In last st of row 39, change to color 2.
Rows 42-51: Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st across. In last st of row 49, change to color 1.
Rows 52-59: Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st across. In last st of row 57, change to color 2.
Rows 60-69: Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st across. In last st of row 67, change to color 1.
Rows 70-77: Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st across. In last st of row 75, change to color 2.
Rows 78-87: Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st across. In last st of row 85, change to color 1.
Rows 88-90: Ch 2 and turn, dc in each st across.
Rows 91-115: Ch 2 and turn, work “Head” chart.
Row 116: Ch 2 and turn. Dc 1, then change to color 2 and work dc in each st until your final 2 sts. Change to color 1 and dc in final 2 sts.
Row 117: Ch 2 and turn. Work dc in each st across and fasten off.
Weave in any ends you may have, then congrats! You’re finished! Now you can tell everyone that you just made a blanket that has over 18,000 stitches in it. :)
Charts
“Head” Chart
← Row 1: (color 1) x 150
→ Row 2: (color 1) x 30, (color 2) x 6, (color 1) x 114
← Row 3: (color 1) x 114, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 6, (color 2) x 6, (color 1) x 20
→ Row 4: (color 1) x 22, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 6, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 114
← Row 5: (color 1) x 114, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 6, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 22
→ Row 6: (color 1) x 22, (color 2) x 128
← Row 7: (color 2) x 128, (color 1) x 22
→ Row 8: (color 1) x 20, (color 2) x 130
← Row 9: (color 2) x 132, (color 1) x 18
→ Row 10: (color 1) x 18, (color 2) x 132
← Row 11: (color 2) x 134, (color 1) x 16
→ Row 12: (color 1) x 16, (color 2) x 134
← Row 13: (color 2) x 134, (color 1) x 16
→ Row 14: (color 1) x 16, (color 2) x 134
← Row 15: (color 2) x 134, (color 1) x 16
→ Row 16: (color 1) x 16, (color 2) x 18, (color 1) x 116
← Row 17: (color 1) x 120, (color 2) x 14, (color 1) x 16
→ Row 18: (color 1) x 6, (color 2) x 24, (color 1) x 120
← Row 19: (color 1) x 120, (color 2) x 26, (color 1) x 4
→ Row 20: (color 1) x 4, (color 2) x 26, (color 1) x 120
← Row 21: (color 1) x 122, (color 2) x 22, (color 1) x 6
→ Row 22: (color 1) x 10, (color 2) x 18, (color 1) x 122
← Row 23: (color 1) x 124, (color 2) x 14, (color 1) x 12
→ Row 24: (color 1) x 14, (color 2) x 10, (color 1) x 126
← Row 25: (color 1) x 150
“Legs” Chart
← Row 1: (color 1) x 150
→ Row 2: (color 1) x 126, (color 2) x 6, (color 1) x 18
← Row 3: (color 1) x 18, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 10, (color 2) x 6, (color 1) x 112
→ Row 4: (color 1) x 114, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 10, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 18
← Row 5: (color 1) x 18, (color 2) x 6, (color 1) x 8, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 12, (color 2) x 102
→ Row 6: (color 2) x 106, (color 1) x 8, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 6, (color 2) x 8, (color 1) x 18
← Row 7: (color 1) x 18, (color 2) x 10, (color 1) x 4, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 2, (color 2) x 112
→ Row 8: (color 2) x 132, (color 1) x 18
← Row 9: (color 1) x 20, (color 2) x 130
→ Row 10: (color 2) x 130, (color 1) x 20
← Row 11: (color 1) x 20, (color 2) x 130
→ Row 12: (color 2) x 128, (color 1) x 8, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 10
← Row 13: (color 1) x 6, (color 2) x 12, (color 1) x 4, (color 2) x 128
→ Row 14: (color 2) x 128, (color 1) x 2, (color 2) x 6, (color 1) x 4, (color 2) x 8, (color 1) x 2
← Row 15: (color 1) x 2, (color 2) x 4, (color 1) x 12, (color 2) x 24, (color 1) x 128
→ Row 16: (color 1) x 124, (color 2) x 6, (color 1) x 20
← Row 17: (color 1) x 150
→ Row 18: (color 1) x 150
If you’ve made it this far, thank you so much for reading all this! I hope it’s given you all the info you need on the Dachshund Blanket pattern. If you have any more questions, please feel free to contact me at sspstitches@gmail.com!
Find the pattern in these places:
You can find my pattern book, Retro Crochet Style: 15 Beginner-Friendly Patterns to Create Your Vintage-Inspired Closet, on the shelves of all major retailers — or see your purchasing options (US + international) here!
